WALKING TOUR OF PUEBLA

Puebla, the fourth largest city in Mexico, is one of it’s best preserved colonial cities and a World Heritage Site since 1987. Founded in 1531, it is location is impressive because it is surrounded by three, often snow-capped volcanoes (Popocatepetl, Ixtaccihuatl and La Malinche). It was the first settlement in Mexico to be laid out on a grid pattern by Spanish colonialists so following a city map is easy. Modern Puebla is a state capital and university city that has preserved its rich heritage of colonial architecture. In recent decades many of its finest buildings have been turned into museums displaying collections of colonial art and regional crafts. Talavera tiles decorate the facades of many of the old colonial buildings.

Central Plaza de la Constitucion in Puebla

Shaded by leafy trees, the main plaza of Puebla is flanked by a majestic cathedral and the Municipal Palace as well as other colonial buildings. In the center stands a monument to the patron saint of Puebla, the Fountain of the Archangel Michael. The plaza is surrounded by restaurants and cafes where you can stop for a taste of local cuisine such as Chiles en Nogada (peppers in a sauce of walnuts and spice or Mole Poblana (a rich spicy sauce containing chocolate, nuts and cinnamon). You can find almost anything you might need in the shops under the arches, including Spanish and English newspapers.

Cathedral at the Plaza de la Constitucion

Thought to be the oldest cathedral in Mexico, as well as the second largest, it was consecrated in 1649. Twin towered and tile domed, this cathedral shows three distinct architectural influences: medieval, Renaissance and Neoclassical. It truly rivals any in the country.. The pillars around the large plaza in front of the building are surmounted by statues of angels, symbols of the town whose full name is Puebla de los Angeles (“People of the Angels”). Inside there are five naves and 14 side chapels. The main altar stands on an octagonal base, and consists of two superimposed “temples” supported by eight pairs of Corinthian columns. The dome is tiled in imitation of that of St. Peter’s in Rome.

Capilla del Rosario in the Church of Santo Domingo

Cinco de Mayo and 6 Poniente

Capilla del Rosario is one of the most dazzling examples of Mexican Baroque architecture. It was completed in 1690 and is known for the ornate gilded plasterwork that decorates the interior. Children, saints and angels strike playful poses amidst intricate foliage. Tendrils twist and twine to form the frames of six paintings depicting the mysteries of the rosary. The dome is no less ornate with saints, cherubs, dancing angels, and a heavenly choir. This church in located three blocks north of the plaza.

Museo Amparo

Calle 2 Sur 708

Occupying a restored 18^th century hospital, this museum houses one of the finest collections of pre-Columbian and colonial art in Mexico. It is located three blocks from the plaza (follow the signs) and is well worth a visit!

The Pre-Hispanic Collection

The first section is divided into eight rooms devoted to pre-Columbian art. An introductory room includes a time line comparing Mesoamerican cultures with contemporary cultures from around the world. The first section ends in an area dedicated to the collection’s finest pieces, such as a Huasteca necklace of 17 tiny skulls carved out of bone and and an Olmec statue known as The Thinker. The museums pride is an altar frieze in white lime stone from the late Mayan period. It depicts a man and a woman in conversation, sitting cross-legged and wearing the headdresses of dignitaries.

The Colonial Collection

In the second section, the rooms are filled with colonial pieces. The works are presented in the artistic, political and social context of the period.

Museum Shop

The Museum Shop sells quality artifacts from the area and features Talavera ceramics from the Talavera de la Reyna workshop in Cholula.

Barrio del Artista

Calle 6 Norte and Avenida 6 Oriente

In colonial times, this area was occupied by textile mills which were a vital part of the Poblano clothing industry. It was remodeled in 1941, but retains a strong colonial feel. There are statues and ornate decorations to admire here, as well as many artists studios which are open to the public. You can see artists at work, purchase their work or have your portrait drawn. Remember to establish your price before you purchase. Occasionally open-air concerts and theatrical presentations take place here.

El Parian Market

Calle 8 Norte between Avenida 2 and Avenida 6 Oriente

This colorful market which specializes in Talavera and local handicrafts, is a block away from the Barrio del Artista. Almost every traditional craft began as something utilitarian often with a religious meaning for a special village. In the ceramic shops ask to see the vessels made expressly for holding mole or those made for tamales. Mexican-style coffee is also brewed in a pottery pot of a particular shape. Look for the “Tree of Life” which can be small or large with fine intricate figures representing a family, a village or the story of Adam and Eve. Onyx and marble carvings created in Tehuacan and Puebla are especially priced. Cholula and Tepeaca are particularly repected for the quality of wool and cotton textiles they produce. Amate paper with unusual designs has long been an important part of religious events

Talavera Workshops in Puebla

Uriarte Talavera @ Calle 4 Poniente 911

The factory showroom has an impressive façade made completely of Talavera.

Talavera Armando @ Calle 6 Norte 408

This factory is in the Parian area. and offers free tours.

Talavera de la Luz

This factory specializes in making large maps and panoramic views in Talavera tiles and has exhibited some of its largest pieces in the USA.

Centro de Talavera la Colonial @ Avenida 6 Oriente 11

This is a retail outlet for the tile factory.

Casa del Alfenique

4 Oriente 416

This colonial mansion is a landmark in Puebla because of its exterior plaster decoration. It is in the area of the Barrio del Artistes so be sure to notice it. The delicate white ornamental plasterwork resembles alfenique, a sugar and almond paste. It houses the state museum of Puebla.

REGIONAL CUISINE

Mole Poblano and Chiles en Nogada

Fonda Santa Clara

Avenida 3 Poniente 307

This is a popular and sometimes noisy restaurant serving traditional regional food. Try the mixiotes, the tingas, or mole poblano. The anojitos (snacks) are tasty. Paper decorations hang from the ceiling and rave reviews are scrawled on the walls. The menu is in English and the bow-tied waiters are efficient and polite.

Restaurante Tipico la China Poblana’s

Calle 6 Norte 1 (one block south of El Parian

This is a small storefront room with three tables next to the kitchen and a larger dining room in the rear. It is decorated with local plates, masks, clothing and a life-sized China Poblana. The food is good but there is no written menu and everything is a la carte.